MEZCALS FOUR-LEGGED PARTNERS

In the hills of Oaxaca, horses and donkeys remain essential partners in traditional mezcal production, crushing roasted agave in the ancient tahona method. This centuries-old technique creates mezcals with unique texture and flavor that modern machinery cannot replicate.

The tahona is a massive stone wheel, often weighing several tons, carved from volcanic rock. A horse or donkey walks in circles, pulling the wheel over roasted agave piñas, crushing them to release their sweet juice while breaking down the fibrous material.

Don Aurelio, a third-generation mezcalero, explains that the animals become part of the family. They work short shifts with plenty of rest and care, and their steady pace creates a gentle crushing action that extracts juice without imparting bitterness from over-crushed fibers.

The relationship between mezcalero and animal is built on trust and routine. The same horses may work with the same producer for years, understanding the process instinctively. Some producers believe the animals' participation adds an essential quality to the mezcal that cannot be quantified.

While modernization threatens this tradition, a growing number of producers recognize the value of tahona-crushed mezcal. Consumers increasingly seek out these traditionally produced spirits, ensuring that both the technique and the four-legged partners who make it possible will continue for generations to come.